Add shamrocks to the flag, change the language to Uzbeki, paint the White House red. But as long as there is still a diner in operation somewhere, the soul of America lives on.

Can there possibly be a red-blooded citizen whose heart doesn't swell at the familiar sight, sanctified by tradition, of Naugahyde booths attended by mom-like servers holding coffee pots? Of Formica counters just inches from where eggs sizzle? Of menus the size of genealogy records, and the sound of meat loaf-laden plates clattering onto Formica tables?

Queens and Long Island are great diner territories, and the appearance of the Pop Diner in Elmhurst only goes to prove it. It emerged full-blown last fall, a striking, orange and black tribute to the '50s diner of collective dreams, but with a menu expanded to reflect post-millennial cooking.

Of course, there would be the requisite omelets, hamburgers, and even the mysterious liver I've seen on every diner menu in America, without ever seeing anybody order it. But owners Nick Tsakonas, John Mavrikis and Tommy Urena have supplemented the standards with some Caribbean and Asian specialties created by chef Kishore Mondal, who also improvises a dozen or so specials a day.

First, though, a word about the decor. This place is so on- the-money that it almost qualifies as conceptual art. Although early diners were shaped like train cars, they soon expanded to miniature Versailles-like structures, thanks to the generous zoning regulations of the suburban areas that support them. Pop is in sync with these behemoths and, like them, it is huge. It also is completely spotless and immaculate, which is more than some of the originals can say.

But what of the diner menu? I don't care how masterfully Pop performs its global specialties. A diner must be judged on its eggs, its hash browns, its hamburgers and meat loaf, and - most critically of all - its grilled cheese and bacon sandwich, which, of all short-order foods, is the one most often, and most painfully, executed badly.

The eggs are spot-on. I ordered a pair soft-scrambled, and they came out exactly on the money, the whites completely blended out and with only a delicate dew of uncooked yellow remaining. The hash browns were of the dismal New York style - chopped up, boiled potatoes rather than absorbent shreds, but they came out well-done, as ordered. The hamburger is big at half a pound, firm, juicy and noticeably fresh meat encompassed by the enriched bun. (The homemade coleslaw, loose and vinegary, was a bonus.)

Amazingly, there is no meat loaf on the menu. A demerit. But Pop redeems its error with an almost-perfect grilled cheese and bacon, which boasts a crusty, margarine-infused exterior that has seen both griddle and then (for extra crunch) a quick stint in the broiler; properly viscous melted American cheese; and the kind of carefully drained, crisp and smoky bacon that stands up to these hearty elements. It's a little too thick for this sandwich, though, and doesn't break off easily upon biting, threatening collapse of the whole sandwich.

The specials are mostly faithful and very high-quality versions of ethnic foods. Curried goat was soft and meaty, with an aromatic, spicy kick that was mellowed by an utterly ungreasy brown sauce.

Herbed roast pork appeared in the rich mushroom gravy that the missing meat loaf should have had, and was moist and garlicky. The fried plaintains that accompanied it were firm but yielding.

Chinese-American grilled salmon was thick and appeared under a tangle of fried taro noodles. The hoisin-accented sauce was festooned with citrus segments and candied ginger and was served with stir-fried vegetables - a nice dish, especially if you remember to order the salmon rare. A skirt-steak sandwich was improbably tender, juicy and vividly flavorful.

Dessert at the Pop Diner generally takes the form of one of the immense cakes that sit in a revolving refrigerated display case in the front of the restaurant. It's a perfect ending to a perfect diner meal, circa 2005.

Pop Diner. 80-26 Queens Blvd., Elmhurst; 718-426-2229. Its Thing: Diner food, with global accents. Its Hours: Sunday through Thursday, from 6 a.m. to 1a.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 24 hours. Your Tab: Breakfasts and burgers $5-$8, entrees $12-$17. Wheelchair access: Outside and inside ramps; bathrooms accessible.

Copyright © 2005, Newsday, Inc.