Ann Arbor's original Fleetwood Diner -- a veritable institution since the mid-1940s when it was known as the Dagwood -- has seen its share of hippies, to be sure.

Plenty of sandal-wearing peaceniks frequented the Fleetwood as I made my way through the University of Michigan in the 1970s.

So, naming a favorite dish "hippie hash" was a no-brainer. After all, the plate of hash browns topped with grilled tomatoes, onions, green peppers, mushrooms, broccoli and feta cheese "looks like something a hippie would eat," said Niki Matusko, who worked her way through college at the diner.

That may be true, but hippie hash tastes like nothing else on the planet: a truly heavenly, groovy concoction of delectable stuff.

Thankfully, we discovered the recently opened Kentwood version of the Fleetwood Diner -- owned by Matusko, her husband, Mark, and her brother, George Fatiadis -- has retained hippie hash, with a host of other classic dishes that elevate quality homemade diner food to near-mythical status.

Kentwood's Fleetwood even adds something new: beer, wine and mixed drinks.

The diverse array of food and beverages certainly made a favorable impression on our dinner party -- Ken and Lydia Syrba from the Rockford area, and my wife, Elizabeth, and myself -- on a recent Saturday night outing.

(In case you're wondering, Ken Syrba is distantly related to Press movie reviewer John Serba. Though they've never met, Serba actually bought his house from Ken's brother, whom he also never had met. The house went from Syrba to Serba. How's that for an other-worldly coincidence?)

The four of us weren't quite sure what to expect from the place, with its extensive menu and alcohol offerings -- sort of a diner on steroids. What we got was cuisine with a homemade flair, rapt attention and a wealth of menu knowledge from our cheerful server, Nancy, along with a laid-back, fun atmosphere.

Because authentic Greek dishes (including Niki Matusko's mother's homemade spanakopita) are featured among the offerings, we kicked things off with some flaming cheese, Kasseri saganaki ($4.59), because the Syrbas were new to this.

Managing to singe neither her eyebrows nor ours, Nancy fired up the appetizer with real flair and, after the alcohol burned off, we dug right in. It was scrumptious, served "in the traditional manner" on triangles of pita bread.

Dinners generally come with two side dishes, so Elizabeth and I started off with Greek salads (something we're always eager to test). I have to say the dressing that topped the romaine lettuce, peppericini, tomatoes, green peppers, onions, olives, beets and feta cheese was as tasty as any I've had. For openers, Lydia sampled the chicken noodle soup, while Ken opted for chili; both earned favorable reviews.

As for the entrees, my surf and turf ($13.99) -- an 8-ounce ribeye steak and five grilled shrimp -- had the right, light seasonings. Although the steak was thin, it was prepared perfectly and the homemade mashed potatoes that accompanied the dinner were topped with a fabulous beef gravy.

By the way, "homemade" may be the operative word at the Fleetwood, which also has an outlet in Lansing.

Niki Matusko told me later that the diner -- open for breakfast and lunch, too -- prides itself on that.

"It's not out of a plastic bag, thrown in the microwave. It's real food, high-quality food, at reasonable prices," she said.

On that score, Elizabeth may have hit the jackpot: Her chicken kabob ($7.59) -- a marinated, char-broiled chicken breast with onions, green peppers, a cucumber sauce and grilled pita -- had her waxing eloquent, along with that hippie hash that came as a side. I couldn't resist swiping some hash (this sounds like a line from a Cheech and Chong flick, eh?) and, frankly, wished I had ordered my own.

Next time, I'll start with the hippie hash and go from there.

As Matusko put it: "It's got that unique flavor you can't find anywhere else."

Lydia, a salmon devotee, was more than pleased with her grilled salmon entree ($10.99) served over rice pilaf. The only down side: Ken's barbecued ribs were a bit on the tough side, though he rated the quarter-roasted chicken that came with the combo ($14.99) as excellent.

Nothing, however, prepared us for the killer desserts: my bananas foster ($4.99) that came piled high in a huge bowl, the scrumptious sauce and bananas covering a generous portion of ice cream, and the Syrbas' brownie sundae ($3.59) that looked just as impressive.

So, if the Matuskos and Fatiadis were looking to recreate a beloved Ann Arbor tradition in suburban Grand Rapids with a few extras to boot, they succeeded. And it all starts with that unrivaled hippie hash.

Originally published online here: http://www.mlive.com/entertainment/grpress/index.ssf?/base/features-0/1175784596246190.xml&coll=6