Considering the hype and controversy surrounding its opening, one would assume the Phillips Avenue Diner was the coming of a rock-star experience for the culinary elite, a place for something new, different and life-changing in Sioux Falls' downtown.

Sadly, that's not so. The locals were just upset about the transplanted building's shiny metal sides clashing with the downtown's rock-and-mortar vibe.

And, food-wise this is just a diner, folks. But, that's not necessarily a bad thing. Homes to hot comfort foods, comfortable booths and usually counters for in-and-out lunches - diners are noted for their simplicity and Americana value.

From the shining surfaces of the steel exterior to the warm wood wrapping around the submarine-like dining area, the diner is a refurbished take on the eateries of the past.

And for fans of the diner's previous incarnations, the Phillips Avenue Diner certainly brings back all the good things one might remember about the joint when it sat over on Louise Avenue.

The old-fashioned signs, the smiling service, the comforts of grilled meat and hot soup all are here, and done up with a dash of class and plenty of zeal.

When we ordered our lunch while sitting outside in late September sun, details overjoyed us. So much to choose from, almost too much, on a menu made for nap-like comfort all day long.

The meal started with a quick beverage service for a wide range of ice cream drinks.

The bread served with both the hot roast beef ($7.99) and the Louisiana burger ($5.99) was amazingly fresh and tender, full of flavor and seemingly prepared that morning or the night before.

We loved that Louisiana burger - all cajun mayo, peppers and onions, and cheese. But the hot beef sandwich, a comfort classic, was too good to not finish off with passion. What a great lunch.

We loved the Seattle's Best Coffee served during a breakfast visit, and we'd tell everyone to get hold of the alarm clock and make a morning visit. They baste eggs accurately here, and from the fresh preserves (try the strawberry spread and compare it to grandma's best) to the exactly-right breakfast burrito (Tex Mex tortilla, $5.59), we were in heaven for half an hour.

Dinner at the diner

Dinner was no exception. The menu might not be that wide, but there are a lot more choices than in the diners of old - for instance, a strawberry spinach salad.

We loved the creamy jambalaya ($10.99) and the top sirloin ($10.99). But we found the chicken parmesan ($8.99) fair. And the homemade popcorn chicken ($6.99) is so juicy and smartly-spiced we could have ordered this appetizer three more times.

Comfortable and not expensive, we loved the diner but came to realize, hey, this is just a diner. It's not like downtown has nothing else like it - but it's new and Sioux Falls loves its new restaurants.

New only lasts for a short time, so we'll see how the dining public supports the novelty. The Diner doesn't exactly break much ground, but serving familiarity with skill and enjoyment works in Sioux Falls.

Originally published online here: http://www.argusleader.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20051006/ENT02/510060325/1005/ENT